HOOK

"We're dedicated to quality and the goodness that comes from homemade meals," explains Bai- ley and a mantra that executive chef Ryan Walsh has truly taken to the next level. With a focus on fresh seasonal products, consistency and customer service, Walsh "didn't want to work out of a freezer." "I talk to our local purveyors on a daily basis," he says. "The goal is to source for the seasons, get things when they hit their peak and highlight them on the menu. The four seasons break down into approximately 13 weeks, which means we change up the menu every six to seven weeks." Chef Walsh certainly does change things up, sometimes even showcasing his eclectic ethnic background (mother is Swedish and father is Chinese). Think lin- gonberry Szechuan sauce. Staples from a broad range of cultures bring comfort food home to the dining room. Acknowledging the area's large Irish population, a va- riety of potato sides, like the pro- volone and onion rosti potato, scallion whipped potato, and truf- fle parmesan fries shine in their own light beside their protein counterparts. Korean fried chicken has been a crowd favorite special, and a rock shrimp and grits dish pops with spicy jalapenos and a fried green tomato base. Fresh seafood takes center stage in the cioppino, an Italian seafood stew served over spaghetti, as well as the colossal shrimp and crab cock- tail starter with bloody Mary sauce and mustard aioli. And for cus- tomers with dietary requirements, they can be assured that special orders are honored. "It's our job to get to know people and their habits, knowing that a regular cus- tomer is gluten-free or knowing the vegan in the room," explains Walsh. "Whether the restaurant is big or small these are the details that make or break a place. The personal touches matter." It's no secret that in the food service industry some- times staffing can be difficult. But a core value both Bai- ley and Walsh have is to create comradery in the kitchen as well as within the entire staff. "In the kitchen we're all equals," says Walsh. "And often it's around the table at our staff dinners where we explore new menu items and ideas." Another key focus is consistency. Once a menu item is established Walsh takes pride in ensuring that dish is prepared the same way every time no matter what day it is or who the staff member is preparing it. From the serving side, seasoned professionals, some with over 27 years of experience working with local legends like Peter Kelly, stand out and go the extra mile to make sure cus- tomers are comfortable and taken care of. It's clear that Bailey has fostered the same love he has for the business with his staff and the result is, like the name suggests, a dining room that's an extension of home where couples, families and friends can expect great food, served up in a casual style and environment, and yes without the drive into NYC. baileyssmokehouseny.com/the-dining-room Ryan Walsh, Executive Chef 2024 | HOOK MAGAZINE 57

• Cover